Pizza lovers take note. The legendary Margherita Sbagliata is available at Fatto a Mano's five London and Brighton restaurants until 2 June. Naturally we went along for a slice. (OK, the entire thing.)
Firstly I should admit a bias here – I'm one of those people who tends to order the weirdest, most elaborate dish on the menu. I do not understand people who order Margherita pizza. It's the same energy as vanilla ice cream or tap water. Elk pizza? Barbequed dolphin pizza? Grass and roast pigeon pizza? All those I would order. How could you not? But Margherita – never! Might as well order a portion of air.
On the other hand, the Margherita Sbagliata is iconic. The signature pizza of the great Franco Pepe, it won Best Pizza in the World for three years straight from 2016 to 2018. Pepe himself has held the title of world’s best pizza chef for three consecutive years and counting. I don't like ballet but if Carlos Acosta is dancing then I'll make an exception. Exceptions must be made for greatness.
And the Margherita Sbagliata is pretty damn great. The name translates as Mistaken Margherita or Margherita Done Wrong – which may explain why I’m such a fan. The base is layed with buffalo, fior di latte mozzarella, Lorenzo extra virgin olive oil and cooked for a mere 90 seconds. Franco Pepe’s riccio (‘curly’) tomato passata is added, uncooked to preserve its natural flavour, and piped in geometric lines alongside dots of basil oil.
The resulting pizza is rich, warm and remarkably generous with its flavour. The dough is cooked to absolute perfection, firm yet chewy. “Probably the best Margherita I've ever had,” was my verdict after the second slice. The third slice removed any “probably” from the equation.
Here's the funny thing: it gets better the longer you eat. Maybe it's the lack of excess toppings; maybe less really is more. But the last few slices went down like absolute bliss. I started making the thoughtful humming sound I make whenever I'm really appreciating my food.
Oh there's also a good cause served with your meal: for each pizza sold, £1.50 will be donated to La Scugnizzeria - an Italian charity centre providing local children with the opportunity to learn essential skills, from theatre and photography workshops to the art of pizza-making.
Is the Margherita Sbagliata the best pizza in the world? God knows – come back to me when I've tried every pizza going. But it's a brilliant pie and that's coming from someone inherently suspicious of anything whose base doesn't contain half a farmyard. One mistake I'll happily make again.
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For more info, see Fatto a Mano
