Old Magic of New Delhi

Landing in Delhi, I was very aware of being the furthest away from home I’ve ever been. Stepping out of the arrivals lounge I steeled my resolve for a culture shock, I knew I’d feel off balance at first, everything would be totally differ... oh wait, there’s a Costa Coffee here. Given the rich culture I experienced for the rest of the trip it seemed sad it started and ended with a UK coffee chain. Still, at the time it was comforting to know I could get a decent machiato if the situation called for it.

A driver ushered our group into a fleet of cars which took us to the ITC Maurya. Greeted with a garland of flowers and a pinch of vermilion powder on my forehead – a look I completely made my own – I was quickly shown to my room. Except ‘rooms’ may be more accurate as the suite was more like an apartment than a hotel room. Although size is what initially impresses, details really make a room feel special; there was a chocolate chocolate box – that is, an intricate box of chocolates actually made out of chocolate – and on my bed was a cushion embroidered with my full name. “Fantastic,” I thought, cramming it into my suitcase.

You may have stayed in luxurious hotels and settings before but it’s not until you visit India you’ll experience anything like the level of service they provide. Upon arrival, I was introduced to my own 24-hour butler and my own concierge; both were infallible. It was clear they took the 24-hour part of their job very seriously; they were always available and immaculately presented. I might have spent some time trying to shake my butler’s professional veneer but I was clearly outmatched. He didn’t even raise an eyebrow when I answered the door for a wake up call wearing a carefully crafted bubble-bath beard. That’s right, I take bubble baths.

It’s not until your first morning you discover another great thing about India; eating curry for breakfast. And I’m not talking about ropey left-over takeaway lamb bhuna. In fact, you can eat curry for every meal should you choose (and I’m sure many do) but then you’d be missing out on some other fantastic food you may not be aware of. Due to north India’s hot dry climate, the cuisine has a strong Afghan influence (bear with me), where the natural heat of the earth is used to slowly cook food. At the Bukhara restaurant, we were served a leg of lamb cooked in an underground oven until the tender meat literally fell from the bone before you could touch it. Absolutely delicious.

My only food criticism is that it had obviously been neutered when it came to spice. I was looking forward to experiencing something really hot but everything was disappointingly mild. I had the impression people are taught Indian food is generally too hot for those unused to it. Also, if you’re not a fan of cardamom you might be in for a bit of a shock, it seemed to be in everything. These are only small criticisms and I still managed to gain 4kgs in the five days I was there.

We spent our first morning in Delhi being shown the fantastic architecture on offer. One structure, the iron pillar in the Qutub complex, still attracts scientific scrutiny today since it has stood in the open for 1,600 years and withstood corrosion. The pillar is 98% pure iron, which highlights the ancient skills of India’s blacksmiths.

We also made the slightly hazardous trip up the staircase of the Jama Majid minaret where the panoramic view of Old Delhi gives a sense of scale that would otherwise be missed. We then ventured into the winding alleys to explore. If you have an issue with personal space you might find it uncomfortable, the crowds are never ending and it can be quite stressful.

Instead of battling back we opted a rickshaw to take us through Old Delhi. “Keep your hands inside the rickshaw and you should be OK,” my guide helpfully advised as he helped me onto the frankly terrifying looking bike taxi. I would liken the experience to a roller coaster except the fear of death is completely rational. Shooting through dense traffic and crowds, it would be hard to find a better adrenaline rush.

If you only do one thing in the north of India, take the train down to Agra and visit the Taj Mahal. No picture can even begin to reflect how stunning the place really is. A good tour guide to the world famous temple is essential to explain the history of the site and learn its secrets. Ours revealed one of the reasons the Taj Mahal is so striking is because you can only see four colours when you are there: blue sky, white marble, green grass and red bricks. I’m not often left speechless by a landmark but it is one of the most spectacular things I have ever seen – and certainly worthy of the ‘World Wonder’ title.

While in Agra we holed up at the ITC Mughal. I’d recommend staying here purely on the strength of the moustaches worn by the men at the entrance. They’re easily worth the price of a holiday to India alone. For those less interested in facial hair (an area of weakness for me) there is the fantastic spa which can easily suck up whole afternoons without you noticing.

Again the level of service is what elevates India above so many other places. Nothing was too much trouble and the staff were genuinely keen to be helpful rather than go through the motions of their jobs. That isn’t to say they’re dull and subservient, far from it, the staff were a lot of fun. I’m not entirely sure how it happened but one evening we ended up in the general manager’s house with him singing I Just Called To Say I love You by Stevie Wonder on his karaoke machine. I’ve never experienced anything so surreal but thankfully there was a lot of gin to make it all easier to deal with.

During my stay in India the Cricket World Cup was reaching its final stages and as we arrived on the train back into Delhi from Agra, India played the winning ball. The resulting celebrations were incredible. You think the City parties hard? Then you haven’t been to India. We heard a roar of cheering as we stepped off the train and were met with a sea of people partying as if it was going out of fashion.

The usually mad roads were even more manic. At one point a van full of obviously hammered men pulled up next to our car waving an unlabelled bottle of a clear spirit at us, motioning us to have some. Our driver spoke to them for a moment, before sending them on their way. When I asked who they were he turned and said, “Oh don’t worry, it was just the police.”

I spent my last morning souvenir shopping, managing to find a statue of Ganesh that was definitely pure marble and not soapstone. The souvenirs were not only to remind me of the fantastic experiences I’d had in India but to ensure my final memory of the country was not of Costa Coffee.

For more info on hotels, go to: itchotels.in 
Flights from £316 with BA: ba.com