CityBird: Oyster Shed

For a bar in the City, a river view comes at a serious premium. Nowadays, you’ll have to dig deeper in your wallet to find somewhere non-schmaltzy, with decent food and booze PLUS a feted view, at a price that won’t break the bank. Step forward the unpretentious newness of the Oyster Shed on Angel Lane – the new easy option.

The new bar and gastropub (technically part of a chain, although they don’t want you to know that), behind investment bank Nomura off Lower Thames Street, is quintessentially British. Think cushioned booths, wooden stools and huge recliners, all surrounded by floor to ceiling glass.

Taking the nautical theme, the bar has imagined cutesy names for its sections: the mezzanine level becomes the ‘observation deck’, downstairs is the ‘main deck’ and there’s even a ‘captain’s table’ for special events. Chintzy, yes. Effective, definitely.

One might expect Valentine’s Day (yes, when we visited) to be stuffed full of couples, all swooning over each other and poncy bunches of flowers. Here, not so. The observation deck, which doubles up as the restaurant, allows a wide view across the Thames, from London Bridge to Southwark Bridge, which in turn ensured I turned to IT guy once every two minutes to slur about ‘just how nice the view is’.

But one should not forget it is the day of love, and we were one of the few parties of reluctant diners trying not to moan about the over-commercialisation of the day while trying to suppress our enjoyment of the evening.

Old-school boozehounds are well-catered for here. It might model itself on a traditional British boozer, but the champagne list is no less than impressive. The wine list is small, but the real treat is the cask ales and ciders. It’s traditional drinking meets waterside City wankiness, but with none of the pretension.

For a food fix, fill your boots with the British menu of rock oysters, steak and oyster pie or a daily catch of the day. Not a fish fan? There’s the usual steak, ham hock, plus some daily specials (I had the delicious half a roast chicken, FYI). The desserts are also pretty special – sticky toffee pudding and a gargantuan cheeseboard among others.

The bar is so new it almost has that lingering smell of paint (and to go to the bathroom you have to go in a lift) – but don’t let that put you off. Bury yourself in a mound of cushions by the window, order a bottle of Billecart Salmon Rosé and stare out to the burgeoning Shard and relax.

Repeat if necessary.