Hartwell House

Fortunately, there are still vestiges of England’s past: places where you can escape the trappings of modernity, markets and Mayfair. Step back in time and into Hartwell House, one of the finest country house hotels in the Home Counties.

From William the Conqueror’s son to King John of England, Hartwell has been home to some of history’s legendary figures. Not least of which was the peripatetic monarch Louis XVIII. The most English of the kings of France, Louis fled France during Napoleon’s reign. After trying out Germany, Italy, Latvia and Poland, he finally settled in England.

(On travelling to Britain from Paris, he sent his notoriously difficult and drunken wife by a separate route – for “safety”, apparently. I tried the same thing with my other half – sadly, it didn’t seem to work.)

Louis came to live at the house for five years, renting it for £500 per annum. For that he could put up 140 members of his inner circle, including the royal family, courtiers and servants.

Today, this regal air remains – in the grand architecture, palatial interior decor and 18th-century landscaped gardens. But sadly today, £500 will only get you a couple of nights’ stay, not a whole year.

After years of neglect the house has been restored to its former greatness by Historic House Hotels and its multimillionaire chairman Richard Broyd – and is now only one of three hotels entrusted to the National Trust. Take a stroll down the mile-long lime tree avenue, or over the lake bridge – which includes the centre arch of the 18th-century Kew Bridge – and it’s easy to see why the Trust was happy to take it on.

Plush suites – bigger than my Clapham flat – are dressed appropriately, with the only nod towards the 21st century flatscreen TVs liberally scattered throughout. The house boasts a labyrinth of living rooms, dining rooms and libraries – try to have a drink in each one if you dare.

And then there’s the food. Louis XVIII was famed for his rotund stomach – if the food in his day was anything like it is today, you can see why. The menu takes local to the next level – including Aylesbury Duck and fruit from Hartwell’s own orchards.

After Louis XVIII returned to France, Hartwell was never far from his thoughts – sending artists such as Melling to paint it. It was clear that he would never forget Hartwell – and neither will I.

Hartwell House, Oxford Road, nr Aylesbury, Bucks, HP17 8NR; 01296 747 444; www.hartwell-house.com