Graff Master Graff Tourbillon

Laurence Graff’s diamond empire is vertically integrated from the network of more than 30 stores, through London workshops to industrial production in South Africa. Given all that, it was no surprise that Graff’s first watch collection is not just all about the diamond, but is topped by what is possibly the most expensively made diamond watch in existence.

Subtle is not the first adjective to come to mind on seeing the Master Graff Tourbillon. Nevertheless, this is a watch that conceals almost as much as it shows. The complexity of sourcing and cutting the stones to fit the dial is breathtaking when set out in raw figures, let alone seeing the detail of the finished watch. According to Michael Pitteland, CEO of Graff Luxury Watches, the 34 carats of diamonds visible on the watch conceal the enormous wastage needed to achieve the end result.

The 15cts of diamonds incorporated into the dial were cut down from 45cts of finished-source diamonds, not counting breakages (on which he is silent). The bezel accounts for 24 trapeze-cut stones of a size and complexity that is possibly unique. Such gemmology pyrotechnics mean that using any standard movement was simply out of the question and so a tourbillion was commissioned from Technomic in La Chaux-de-Fonds – don’t worry, its a unique design made to Graff specifications.

Those unable to convince themselves to part with the £1m that Graff asks for the watches can still dip their toes into Graff waters for somewhat less, there being a growing collection starting from a more temperate £12,250.